Spring is always a rush for boat owners. Yards are fully booked, the weather is unpredictable and everyone wants to launch at the same time. That is why it pays to do part of the work in autumn, right after the boat is lifted. The hull is clean, damage is easy to see and there is more time.
Below is the order we recommend, based on our experience with boats in Estonia and the Baltic Sea.
1. Wash the hull the day it comes out
Fouling comes off most easily before it dries. Pressure wash on the same day. For the yellow waterline, rust streaks and limescale, use Nautic Clean 02 hull cleaner; for the deck and other surfaces, Nautic Clean 09 universal cleaner.
2. Inspect the hull and underwater gear
Scrape off any flaking paint and see what is underneath. Check:
- scratches, dents and osmosis blisters on the hull;
- the bottom edge of the rudder, where water often collects;
- skin fittings and seacocks: do they move freely and are they sound;
- anodes: if more than half is gone, replace them before launch;
- the propeller and shaft.
If you have a moisture meter, take readings on a GRP hull in autumn and again in spring. That shows whether the hull dries out over winter.
3. Repair and prime – but only in the right weather
Bare and repaired areas are best primed before winter. On a cast iron keel, grind the rust back to bare metal and apply several coats of Primocon primer. It protects the keel over winter and makes spring painting easier. For GRP hulls, the epoxy primers Interprotect and Gelshield 200 also protect against osmosis.
One important difference from advice written for southern Europe: in the Baltics, October and November are often damp and cold. Prime only on a dry day, when the air is mild and the surface is clearly above the dew point. The exact temperatures are on each product's technical data sheet. If the weather does not allow it, do the job in a heated shed or leave it until spring – primer applied to a damp surface does more harm than good.
4. Winterise the engine
The engine is the most expensive part of the boat, and winter is the riskiest time for it. Do at least the following:
- change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm;
- change the fuel filter and fill the tank to prevent condensation;
- flush the raw water cooling system and fill it with antifreeze;
- check the impeller and coolant;
- service the sterndrive or saildrive: oil, bellows, anodes.
You will find the right parts among our Volvo Penta service kits. If you would like a Volvo Penta certified technician to do the winter service, get in touch.
5. Empty and dry the interior
Take textiles, mattresses and electronics home. Empty the lockers, dry the bilges and leave the vents open so moisture does not stay inside. Take removable timber – seats, sole boards, hatches – to a warm room. Winter evenings are a good time to varnish them, for example with Perfection Plus two-pack varnish. For teak decks, see the Nautic Clean teak care range.
6. Choose next season's antifouling now
Autumn gives you time to choose calmly. The right antifouling depends on your boat's speed, hull material and whether you sail in fresh or salt water. From our range:
- Boatguard 100 – an economical choice for boats used less often;
- Cruiser 250 – a popular choice for a typical leisure boat;
- Ultra 300 – a hard antifouling for faster boats;
- Micron 350 – self-polishing, long-lasting protection.
For an aluminium hull, make sure the antifouling is approved for aluminium. If in doubt, ask us. For the propeller and shaft, also look at Propspeed.
Checklist
- Hull washed the day the boat came out
- Flaking paint scraped off, damage marked
- Skin fittings, seacocks, anodes and propeller checked
- Bare areas primed (on a dry day or indoors)
- Engine: oil, filters, cooling system, drive
- Interior emptied and vents open
- Timber parts moved to a warm room
- Antifouling and supplies chosen for spring
Questions? BMG Power Systems is happy to help: shop@bmgpower.eu, +372 5628 9999. Stock is held in Tallinn, with pickup from Härgmäe 5 or courier delivery across Estonia.